So imagine yourself being out in the water on a surfboard. You can comfortably drift into shore on your stomach without too much effort, relaxing as the waves gently roll you in.
If you're up for a little bit of a challenge, you can wait around for a nice wave to catch that'd offer you a sweet ride in. You've ridden these waves before, but you'd still learn a few new things and you still get a kick out of it.
But if you're really up for it, you could paddle around the point, out to where they say the reef is just under the waterline, with monster waves heading into a rocky shore. No one knows whether this place actually exists or if you'd survive the ride, but if you caught the right wave, oh man, what a ride it'd be.
Which line do you take?
What if this was your last ride until sundown? What if it was early morning and the sun was just rising?
2 comments:
Devil's advocate would say "I'm not gonna die tomorrow, why would I think that way."
I'd say try it once and you'll see your self-preserving but self-defeating logic.
this blog is comin' along nicely, who the fuck is tmac
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